• Bienfang Vacuum Press

The Bienfang® Masterpiece® 550 Mechanical Press is the versatile and dependable choice of framing professionals for the creative mounting and laminating of photos, artwork and posters, among other materials. This is the original soft-bed dry mounting/laminating press with adjustable 150-300 degree F (66-149 C).

I have a SEAL Commercial 210M dry mount press. It has been in storage for some time and it looks as though the thermostat needs adjusting. I found a PDF copy of the manual online but it says to recalibrate the thermostat contact Bienfang Technical Services. I underastand SEAL and Bienfang have gone through numerous ownership changes and I have been unable to find the current contact information. Can anyone explain to me how to properly verify the temperture being produced by the press and how to adjust the thermostat? OR can someoen provide the current contact information for Bienfang/SEAL? For dry-mounting photos, the thermostat is only an indicator to get you in the ballpark.

As such, precise adjustment is not required. Other applications may require more precision. When mounting photos, final temperature setting must be done with a mount stack matching your work, with meltable wax test strips below the print, where the dry mount tissue is. You leave the stack in the press for the nominal mount time, then remove it and evaluate the melt gauges. Adjust the thermostat as needed so you get the correct temperature at the tissue.

The best way to check the platen temperature is with a digital thermometer and a long lead thermocouple. Something like a Fluke digital meter with accuracy of +/- 0.5 degrees would be excellent. Put the TC on the platen, then close the lid and wait a few minutes for temperature stabilization before reading. An analogue hotplate thermometer (less expensive) will work also, such as made by the Pacific Transducer Corp.

However that should be calibrated using a known standard. Can't tell you how to adjust the thermostat - I just arrive at the desired temperature by checking the thermocouple and placing a mark on the dial. Nate Potter, Austin TX. I have a SEAL Commercial 210M dry mount press. It has been in storage for some time and it looks as though the thermostat needs adjusting. I found a PDF copy of the manual online but it says to recalibrate the thermostat contact Bienfang Technical Services.

I underastand SEAL and Bienfang have gone through numerous ownership changes and I have been unable to find the current contact information. Can anyone explain to me how to properly verify the temperture being produced by the press and how to adjust the thermostat? OR can someoen provide the current contact information for Bienfang/SEAL? Believe it or not but Elmer's glue now owns Seal. 888-240-6021, parts 866-667-4836. Typically the adjustment of thermostats involve adjusting the small screw in the center of the shaft to which the knob is affixed.

The way to do this is first remove the knob. Next with a small screw driver adjust the small screw in the center of the knob shaft. Turn the small screw counter clockwise to increase the temp setting and counter clockwise to decrease the temp setting. Small increments can make quite a difference in temperature.try 1/8 turn to start and then after the temp stabilizes see whether the set temperature agrees with the indicated temperature. The way to do this is first remove the knob. Next with a small screw driver adjust the small screw in the center of the knob shaft. Turn the small screw counter clockwise to increase the temp setting and counter clockwise to decrease the temp setting.

Small increments can make quite a difference in temperature.try 1/8 turn to start and then after the temp stabilizes see whether the set temperature agrees with the indicated temperature. Thanks Donald. You wrote 'counter clockwise' twice. Can you clarify which direction is which please?

Elmers no longer handles Seal, the new owners of Bienfang and Seal distribute via Omega Brandess. Contact them at 800-777-6634 I spoke with Elmers parts department a little while ago and they said to call Sherry at the 888-240-6021 number. I called this and it threw me off becuase it seemed to lead to a framing shop or something. I'll give them a call tomorow when they're open. I also try giving Omega Brandess a call. I contacted Sherri at the number mentioned above. Very nice lady.

She should be sending me the calibration instructions any minute now. Once I have them I'll put both the manual and the calibrations on my website so that people will be able to find it in the future without the run around. Quick question, can anyone recommend a store where I can find a hot plate thermometer (either digital or dial) that will allow me to check the temp of the press? I'm hoping for something local so perhaps some type of general store with national locations (I'm in Phoenix) but if I have to order it thats ok too. I went and got the proper long screwdriver on my lunch break yesterday.

The press is currently at the camera store I work. Got back and started working on calibrating it. Well on my first attempt I got a little overzealous and turned the setting screw a bit too much and before I knew it to sky rocketed to what must have been 400-425 degrees.

I almost burned the store down haha! Anyway, I turned the screw way back down and got it turned off and cooled down before any damage could occur. I let it settle and then gave it a second go and it worked perfectly. As long as the thermostat is reading the proper temperature the press should now be calibrated.

I'll be bringing a thermometer up there today to double check the temp. Thanks to everyone for the help with this! Ok, the thermostat is reading the proper temperture. Checked with a probe thermometer that I know is reading properly. However despite my efforts, the thermostat is still not sinked up with the temperture selection gauge. Its much closer then it was before but still about 25 degrees off.

Bienfang Vacuum Press

I'm nervous about trying to adjust it more because the calibration instructions say to set the temp selection knob to 350 and then use the long thin screwdriver to turn the setting screw in the shaft (after removign the knob) so that the thermostat matches 350. I did this yesterday and it seemed to match perfectly. Doing this again concerns me because when the press gets up to that high of a temp it starts cooling the felt pad inside and stats smoking and smelling bad. I really dont want to set anything on fire or ruin the press. As far as I'm concerned I can stick a thermometer in there to sink it to the proper temperture for any given dry mount tissue. Francesco The instructions that I have say to set the temp dial to 200F and adjust the screw to get that temp.

The thing that is important is that the temp that YOU will use to dry mount (ie 200F) matches up on the temp dial and your probe thermometer. All the other temp settings do NOT matter, as you will not be using them. My recommendation is to set the temp dial to 200F (if that is the temp for your standard dry mount tissue), then adjust the screw so the temp on your temp probe is 200F. The thermometer on the press measures the heat at the platten, not the work surface which is probably under kraft paper and mat boards. So there will probably be a difference between the thermometer on the press and your probe thermometer. And for all you know the thermometer on the press could be out of calibration. Note the difference and then use the thermometer on the press to tell you that the press has reached operating temperature.

Jon My instructions state 'This should be done with the press top resting on the sponge pad.' To me, the phrase 'resting on the sponge pad' indicates closed but not locked. But that does not make sense.

I would think you would calibrate the temp with the press closed and locked, as you would be when pressing a print. And you would do it with the sandwich (kraft paper, mat boards, etc) that you normally press with, as that sandwich could affect the temp at the print/tissue/mat board.

The press I'm using now is a 26 x 34 Masterpiece 500T-X by Seal Products. The bottom layer of the heat plate(?) on it was replaced within the past few years, by an experienced professional to my knowledge, before I arrived at this shop. I have been using this dry-mount press for about seven months, and I have very few memories of a piece coming out right the first time without needing a lot of second/third attempts. I figure it has got to be something I'm doing wrong, because I learned dry-mounting with tissue and on a 40 x 60 vacuum press, and this is not air-pressurized. I use Kool-Tac or Speedmount (both Acid-Free and Regular, though I usually have less issues with acid-free).

I usually put things under pressure for 15-45 seconds, and if it starts to bubble I will put it back in for 10 seconds. The set-up, which always stays in the press, is two 32 x 40 mats below the piece, and two release boards above the piece. The most common problem I have is bubbling. Even if something is 100% completely even and flat (and believe me I am using a careful eye) when I take it out, even if it has no bubbles for 5-10 minutes after, inevitably I walk away and it begins to bubble.

Usually in the center of the image, occasionally at the edges. This happens with magazine pages, whether or not I spray them with de-acidification spray, and even with brand new prints on clean standard printer paper. I keep it at around 180 degrees regardless. The shop is in a building where the temperature is usually somewhat inconsistently heated at around 60 degrees in winter, if that makes a difference.

Do I need a new press? Should I be leaving pieces in for longer/shorter periods with less/more heat? Is my dry-mount board not compatible?

It seems the only common factor is something I must be doing incorrectly. Please help, advice is greatly appreciated. It sounds like a pressure problem which is often caused by irregular pressure from the sponge pad or misadjusted hinges. Also, depending of which type of adhesive you are using, some bond upon heating and do not need to be weighted and others bond upon cooling and require direct contact and weight while they are cooling. A 32 x 40 box of glass over a silicone release board makes an excellent weight.

What is the condition of the felt covered sponge pad? Are there soft areas in the center? The rubber can degrade and after years of use, needs to be replaced. Also, are the hinges properly adjusted?

Here is a link to the pressure adjusting template: here is a link to the manual which has a section on pressure adjustment and also a parts list that includes the sponge pad. Here is a link to a non-contact thermometer which will also allow you to confirm even heating and correct calibration of your thermostat: you would also benefit greatly from this book: At the WCAF/PPFA convention - Chris Pashke A7158 - Is Dry Mounting Obsolete?. (A7158) First you need to know what you have to mount then select the correct process.

With more and more heat sensitive images, wide-format printing and open editions printed to canvas, bamboo, acrylic, vinyl, etc., are hot vacuum and mechanical dry mount presses becoming a thing of the past? This session will explore and compare mounting alternatives, adhesives, and substrates to handle art in the 21st century. Problem areas will include: warping and counter-mounting, HA boards, permanent vs. Removable, P-S boards, heavy-duty and high-density mounts, encapsulated charts, and aluminum composite materials (ACM).Meets the requirements for MCPF Continuing Education Credit - but open to all framers. M2012 - Mastering Mounting: Sensitive Items (M2012) This lecture will address the do's and don'ts of mounting everyday sensitive items.

Do you keep the lid down when it sits idle. I use 2 release boards with one above the art and the other below. The bottom board is cut to 30x40 with the top being 32x40 so it is easy to lift the upper.

Your temp seems way too high but the boards need to stay hot while not in use. You can pick up the laser thermometer at most stores for around $20 to be sure the temp is accurate and make sure there are no cool spots. A lot of people leave the lid up when not in use and that means the boards will take a couple of minutes to get up to temp especially since you have 2 above the artwork. I close the lid but don't clamp it when not in use so everything in the press is at a constant temp. I've seen a couple of broken noses by people leaving the lid up and them putting a hand on the lid while reaching over the press while the handle crashes into their face. Be sure to adjust the pressure of the lid as described in the manual which Larry Peterson has on his manuals page. Are you pre-drying your art before you attempt to mount it?

Residual moisture can weaken a bond. I place my poster/whatever into the heated press for 45 seconds between Kraft paper, lift the platen, “fluff” the Kraft paper to move the air around around a little, then lower the platen again for 45 seconds. In almost 30 years I’ve never had a problem with bubbling.

And, my felt pad has never been replaced. I am “old school” and don’t use SpeedMount or Kool-Tac but, rather, sheets of dry mount tissue and FoamBoard. I might suggest you try using the “old” method for a few times and see if you still have problems. If not, it may be a lousy batch of the Kool-Tac or SpeedMount. Thank you all so much for your advice/input! To try to respond to everyone at once: I had two release boards because that is what the previous framer (with 20+ years experience) left in there.

I didn't question it until now. I think they may have been mistakenly left in there?

I am going to be using just one from now on, thank you. I have never thought to pre-dry my pieces, and am not sure how possible it is given that often I am dry-mounting pieces that extend beyond the 28 x 36 heat press. I very very rarely had issues when using dry-mount tissue/vacuum press at the place I worked previously. Here it seems even simple stuff like magazine articles and plain printer paper struggle to stay adhered. I liked using dry-mount tissue (I think it was called Colorount?) but hesitate to order a roll of dry-mount tissue when I have little faith in my ol' press as it is, and a few boxes of Kool-Tack and Speedmount. I always keep the press closed when I'm not using it, and allow it to heat up to full temperature for at least 15 minutes before mounting anything.

I also turned down the temperature. I had been instructed to keep it at 180 degrees, but the knob to adjust the temperature read 180 while the thermostat on the piece was reading 200. So assuming the thermostat is most accurate, it is now at closer to 170.

Today dared mount a small (6' x 24') piece of paper for the third time today, with the lower temperature and allowing it to sit in the press for about 20 seconds after pressure was lifted. It seemed to work pretty well, only bubbled in one spot so i popped it back in for another 15 seconds and it was smooth to my standards.

Rob - Thank you for all the links. I will borrow or buy a thermometer to test the consistency of the heat, I suspect that could be a big part of the issue. I will have to go back with a flashlight to get a better look at the rubber pad, but it didn't seem to be covered in felt from what I can tell? I will be buying that book as a Christmas present to myself!